???It is hard to travel more than a mile or two in Buffalo without encountering some type of locally owned restaurant or corner tavern. There are little, hidden gems tucked into every neighborhood.
???Jovi's Italian Grille and Bistro is one of those eateries.
???The establishment is located in a small strip plaza just north of Kenmore Avenue at 2795 Delaware Ave., and even though there is a sign indicating the restaurant's existence, it is easy to pass by without ever noticing it.
???Both the facade and interior are understated and simple. There are two entrances; one will lead the diner into the restaurant itself, the other into a spacious bar room. The bar room is decorated similarly to the dining room. It seats approximately 20 hungry patrons, and that doesn't include the long, ample bar with about a dozen tall stools. The space is large, yet comfortable.
???Upon entering the dining room through glass-paneled French doors, guests will feel relaxed by the dim lighting and faux-Venetian plaster walls. The room seats about 50 people, but the tables are spaced out in order to allow considerable movement about the room.
???There are large windows at the end of the dining room that lend a fair amount of sunlight at the right time of day.
???The menu includes the expected fare of Italian goodies. Items such as fried calamari ($8.95) and spinach bread ($5.25) are no surprise, but the stuffed tomato is a different story. A large breaded tomato filled with creamy Gorgonzola, asiago and feta cheeses, finished with a white wine and herb shrimp sauce adds a unique touch to a traditional menu.
???Entrees are a little pricey for the usual Italian joint, but when you take into consideration the possibilities of leftovers, the thought is easier to digest. After browsing the selection, patrons will notice Italian staples like spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and ravioli ($14.95 to $15.95) and of course, chicken parmigiana ($17.95) and veal marsala ($20.95).
???There are also a few surprises under the entree listings to delight the more experimental eater.
???A dish curiously named Georgian Chicken ($19.50) is described as a boneless breast of chicken wrapped in a puff pastry and finished with a brandy and vanilla cream sauce. The dish is completed with red pepper and peaches, which accentuate the Georgian appeal.
???For seafood fans, there are shrimp and scallop dishes ranging from $19.95 to $21.95. An example of a delicious fish entree would be Parmesan crusted sea bass over risotto with sun-dried tomatoes and artichokes. Jovi's also offers a cuisine-based Buffalo tradition - fish fry on Fridays for $10.95.
???Dinner begins with a basket of warm, crusty bread accompanied by a garlic and herb compound butter that adds extra zest. Each table also receives a homemade olive salad marinated in Italian herbs and oil, which means there is plenty to fill up on before the main course arrives.
???All entrees include a dinner salad that exceeds average expectations, as the large, fresh Mesclun mix is made more special with a tangy house dressing-a garlic, parmesan and balsamic concoction. Add a few onions and ripe tomatoes and dinner is off to a good start.
???Call it red sauce or Nona's gravy - that's what all Italian restaurants literally boil down to, and Jovi's makes the grade. Their mixture is thick, zesty and homemade and whether it tops the lasagna or the ravioli, there is sauce aplenty.
???The list of desserts was long and delicious. including spumoni.
???Having been in business for 20 years, Jovi's has the art of Italian dining figured out and students better make sure to keep their white napkin handy in order to throw in the towel when their feasting marathon is finished.
Photo: Courtesy of Laron Fomby
