A new restaurant has opened on Main between Heath and Englewood that provides a comfortable alternative to the slushy streets. Smoothly dim lights and small candles provide an atmosphere that can best be described as "hip." The jazz music in the background is soft and soothing. But best of all, the wine list is long and the menu is unique.
The location used to be occupied by Coffee Bean caf?(c), a small shop that couldn't quite compete with Spot or Starbucks despite both its renowned Sunday morning brunch and gourmet sandwiches.
Now, the Shango New Orleans Bistro and Wine Barn is bringing the University Heights area some new flavor.
They have kept the paninis and the salads, and best of all, they kept the Sunday brunches. But now they also feature a menu of appetizers and entr?(c)es that have a warm New Orleans flavor. Vegetable gumbo and Creole chicken pasta are difficult dishes to find in Buffalo.
There are also several barbequed and charred entrees on top of their pastas. Such variety makes it a pretty safe bet that any customer would be satisfied with at least one item from the menu. In addition to that, the taste is comparable to any of Buffalo's finest restaurants, at a friendlier price.
The prices on the menu belie the generous servings. Their portions are suited to feed John Belushi, circa "Animal House." Not only is it unlikely that one would leave the restaurant hungry, but also, chances are good that half of the meal will go home in a take-out container. One of the appetizers alone could fill an average customer. Accompanied by a number of pleasant spirits, the meal makes for a wonderful way to end a long day.
Shango offers a nice alternative to the headaches and crowdedness that accompany a Friday night at PJ Bottoms or the Steer. Their wine list is as extensive as their menu, and they offer a number of delicious desserts.
The restaurant has been open for less than a month and is still on its infant legs. Some of the tables are a bit cramped and the service, though extremely friendly, is a little sloppy. These are small problems that will surely be ironed out as the restaurant gets older and more successful.
It should be noted though that the waitresses are quite adept at deftly and calmly putting out fires that may be started by oblivious patrons that drop their napkins onto candles.
The Coffee Bean Caf?(c), despite its poor business, had always been one of the coolest places in the South Campus area thanks to its jazz performances and laid-back atmosphere. The owner that provided this atmosphere to Coffee Bean is still in place and has made a habit of personally welcoming his guests.
However, as caf?(c)s go, Coffee Bean was hardly unique. Shango is more visually appealing. The remodeling has transformed the building into the kind of upscale bar that one would expect to find downtown or in Allentown.
The Shango New Orleans Bistro and Wine Barn opened on Feb. 7, and so far, it has been very successful. If nothing about the restaurant changes, it is easily the best restaurant in the University Heights area. If it improves, it might become one of the most desirable nightspots in the entire city.
Photo: Courtesy of Laron Fomby
